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Fits like a glove...
(about NuclearWardrobe sizing)
All garments have a listed "size" and measurements.
The "size" given is what the garment was originally marked as
on the label.
If the item seams have been stretched
out or shrunk (these are vintage items!), a note will be made
that gives the more approximate size.
The garments are measured, laying flat, as follows:
Bust: across front from underarm to underarm, then doubled.
(measurement will be adjusted slightly for darting or other
construction)
Waist: across front most narrow width, then doubled.
Hips: 7 or 8" ( 23 cm) below waist, across front, then doubled.
Length: either from shoulder to hem, or waist to hem (for
dress/skirts/ pants) or from shoulder to waist (for
sweaters/blouses)
Sleeve length: from shoulder to cuff
Shoulder: from sleeve seam to sleeve seam, across back
Inseam: inner pant leg seam, crotch to cuff
Rise: from waist to crotch seam
Shoe length: Inside from toe to heel
Shoe width: inside across widest point, ball of foot
These are the U.S.size markings/ measurements we use:
Bust (fullest part of bust)
Waist (narrowest part of natural waistline, right under
ribcage...yep, it really is that high)
Hips (fullest part of hip, ~8" below waist....yes, it is around your
tush)
**Measure yourself around with a soft, flexible tape measure.
AND Measure a similar garment. Compare to measurements
given in garment listing.
** Always measure yourself TWICE.
**It is adviseable to add about 2" to your taken measurements
for an ideal, comfortable fit.
Here are the basics of how we size clothing...
X-Small: B = 33", W = 25", H = 35"
(MODERN: 4 = VINTAGE: 8)
Small: B = 34-35", W = 26-27", H = 36-37"
(MODERN: 6-8 = VINTAGE: 10)
Medium: B = 36-38", W = 28-20", H = 38-40"
(MODERN: 10-12 = VINTAGE: 12-14)
Large: B = 39"-41", W = 31-33", H = 41-43"
(MODERN: 14-16 = VINTAGE: 16-18)
*Remember that clothing sizing varies from decade to decade and
between clothing manufacturers. (i.e. A modern size 8 is not the same
as a 1950s size 8.)
(about NuclearWardrobe sizing)
All garments have a listed "size" and measurements.
The "size" given is what the garment was originally marked as
on the label.
If the item seams have been stretched
out or shrunk (these are vintage items!), a note will be made
that gives the more approximate size.
The garments are measured, laying flat, as follows:
Bust: across front from underarm to underarm, then doubled.
(measurement will be adjusted slightly for darting or other
construction)
Waist: across front most narrow width, then doubled.
Hips: 7 or 8" ( 23 cm) below waist, across front, then doubled.
Length: either from shoulder to hem, or waist to hem (for
dress/skirts/ pants) or from shoulder to waist (for
sweaters/blouses)
Sleeve length: from shoulder to cuff
Shoulder: from sleeve seam to sleeve seam, across back
Inseam: inner pant leg seam, crotch to cuff
Rise: from waist to crotch seam
Shoe length: Inside from toe to heel
Shoe width: inside across widest point, ball of foot
These are the U.S.size markings/ measurements we use:
Bust (fullest part of bust)
Waist (narrowest part of natural waistline, right under
ribcage...yep, it really is that high)
Hips (fullest part of hip, ~8" below waist....yes, it is around your
tush)
**Measure yourself around with a soft, flexible tape measure.
AND Measure a similar garment. Compare to measurements
given in garment listing.
** Always measure yourself TWICE.
**It is adviseable to add about 2" to your taken measurements
for an ideal, comfortable fit.
Here are the basics of how we size clothing...
X-Small: B = 33", W = 25", H = 35"
(MODERN: 4 = VINTAGE: 8)
Small: B = 34-35", W = 26-27", H = 36-37"
(MODERN: 6-8 = VINTAGE: 10)
Medium: B = 36-38", W = 28-20", H = 38-40"
(MODERN: 10-12 = VINTAGE: 12-14)
Large: B = 39"-41", W = 31-33", H = 41-43"
(MODERN: 14-16 = VINTAGE: 16-18)
*Remember that clothing sizing varies from decade to decade and
between clothing manufacturers. (i.e. A modern size 8 is not the same
as a 1950s size 8.)
Condition...
(a guide on the condition of garments)
Vintage garments are just that, vintage. They will have natural
signs of wash and wear from throughout the years.
I am always careful to examine each garment for any flaws
and overall condition. I have been told I might even be too
picky...many customers have said the garment was "better
than described". This just means I err on the conservative side
and make sure you have all the facts.
As a vintage clothing buyer myself, I know how it important it
is to know everything about the item so you can make a smart
decision when purchasing.
These are the ratings used for all items:
PRISTINE/MINT: This item might be deadstock (vintage item
that has never been worn, may have tags still attached) or is
otherwise perfect, new condition.
EXCELLENT: minimal wear, like-new condition, no major
flaws to note
VERY GOOD: some wear to item, minimal flaw such as a
loose button, or other flaw that can be fixed
GOOD: wearable garment, but has significant signs of wear,
that may or may not detract from overall look or wearability
FAIR: major flaw(s) noted which may or may not be
repairable, but will not be excellent condition even if repair is
made
AS IS: poor condition, usually unwearable or damaged
beyond repair, may be used for study
Odors will be mentioned, as well as, noted stains, holes, worn
areas, loose seams or buttons, patches or repairs.
Items are always clean, unless otherwise noted. Some may
require further cleaning (i.e. dry cleaning) or will need to be
pressed.
Construction & Fabric...
I try to identify all the fabrics used and significant elements of
construction. I am not an expert so if I am unsure I will describe
to the best of my ability. I often used this symbol "(?)" in my
descriptions if I am unsure. Please feel free to contact me with
any questions.
I always try to mention whether items are lined, pockets,
fasteners (zippers, snaps, buttons), belts/sahshes, etc.
Dating...
Each listing will mention the year the item was made. This is
based on my educated guess typically. Knowledge that a
piece is reproduction or modern vintage will always be
disclosed.
I try to include photographs of vintage or designer labels in the
listing. If the piece if vintage and there is no photograph of the
label, this means there is not label in the garment.
(a guide on the condition of garments)
Vintage garments are just that, vintage. They will have natural
signs of wash and wear from throughout the years.
I am always careful to examine each garment for any flaws
and overall condition. I have been told I might even be too
picky...many customers have said the garment was "better
than described". This just means I err on the conservative side
and make sure you have all the facts.
As a vintage clothing buyer myself, I know how it important it
is to know everything about the item so you can make a smart
decision when purchasing.
These are the ratings used for all items:
PRISTINE/MINT: This item might be deadstock (vintage item
that has never been worn, may have tags still attached) or is
otherwise perfect, new condition.
EXCELLENT: minimal wear, like-new condition, no major
flaws to note
VERY GOOD: some wear to item, minimal flaw such as a
loose button, or other flaw that can be fixed
GOOD: wearable garment, but has significant signs of wear,
that may or may not detract from overall look or wearability
FAIR: major flaw(s) noted which may or may not be
repairable, but will not be excellent condition even if repair is
made
AS IS: poor condition, usually unwearable or damaged
beyond repair, may be used for study
Odors will be mentioned, as well as, noted stains, holes, worn
areas, loose seams or buttons, patches or repairs.
Items are always clean, unless otherwise noted. Some may
require further cleaning (i.e. dry cleaning) or will need to be
pressed.
Construction & Fabric...
I try to identify all the fabrics used and significant elements of
construction. I am not an expert so if I am unsure I will describe
to the best of my ability. I often used this symbol "(?)" in my
descriptions if I am unsure. Please feel free to contact me with
any questions.
I always try to mention whether items are lined, pockets,
fasteners (zippers, snaps, buttons), belts/sahshes, etc.
Dating...
Each listing will mention the year the item was made. This is
based on my educated guess typically. Knowledge that a
piece is reproduction or modern vintage will always be
disclosed.
I try to include photographs of vintage or designer labels in the
listing. If the piece if vintage and there is no photograph of the
label, this means there is not label in the garment.